The Alster - the watery heart of the city

 Hamburg was founded at the mouth of the Alster river in the 9th century as a port city. The Alster as we know it today is formed from two artifical dammed lakes that flow to the River Elbe through a series of small canals, sitting right in the centre of the city. 


The Alster is quite an incredible sight, being that it sits directly in the heart of the city, being at one extreme a tranquil boating lake full of small cafes, bridges and lush greenery and at the other, a bustling cityscape. One can sit serenely with a cold beer and watch the joggers tread the stone paths and the rowers cruising through the water, only to turn one's head for quite a different perspective - a horizon dominated by gothic cathedrals, expensive hotels, and fancy shops. This is something I've never seen before in any of the cities I've visited. Most lakes are either miles out from the city else are about the size of a duck pond.


When we arrived in Hamburg in September it was still warm and sunny so we had fun out on a pedalo (quite an experience in the middle of a hundred sailing boats), enjoyed a few beers at our 'local' complete with pier and deck chairs and dodged in and out of the many joggers flying along on our for-hire Stadtad bicycles. 


But the Alster isn't just for the summer. In the deep winter, with thick snow underfoot, ten layers of clothing and wooly hats we set out on search of Gluhwein. in -10 degrees we reached our local only to be told they were having a private party. So we carried on walking. We ended up in a bar that has seating for no more than 10 people and they make the Gluhwein using a kettle, nestled in next to a group of businessmen avoiding going home to their wives, facing a giant moose's head on the wall. 


Water is at the centre of everything in Hamburg and the Alster is at the centre of that. It doesn't matter if it's a cold winter's day or a hot day in summer, there's always something to discover.